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A day of ghost towns and yesteryear vibes

With a 400+km drive ahead there was no dilly dallying as we packed up and left Field. Our route would take us south-west, north-west, south-west then south-east and if we had the option of a straight line it would have been a mere 170km. Far less interesting though; this was a day crammed with fascinating stuff, and even better, fascinating OLD stuff. Read more

More blue lakes and a ski resort in summer

Lake Louise is an amazing area to visit. It gets a deluge of visitors too, being just 40-odd minutes from Banff in prime Canadian Rockies territory. We’d each been here separately many moons ago and were looking forward to reconnecting with some familiar turf as well as making some new memories. We covered a few things over a couple of visits. Read more

Parkway drives under blue and grey skies

We were in Banff National Park and we were here to see mountains. And glacial lakes. And wildlife if they obliged. There are beautiful drives to get you out there in amongst it and this post covers two made during our short stay in the area. Whether we would in fact see the mountains was entirely up to the weather gods whose moods were very changeable. Read more

Hiking at Lake O’Hara

At a ridiculous time of night a few months out from our trip we sat poised over the keyboard and at the appointed hour, after a few tense minutes, managed to secure tickets to Lake O’Hara. Demand always outstrips supply so we were rapt that we’d be among the lucky few able to see one of Yoho’s most outstanding features. Read more

Introduction to Yoho National Park and a short lesson in Cree

We left Alberta and crossed back into BC; Banff National Park became Yoho National Park. There were more lakes and mountains and general Rockies wonderment to behold from our new base in the village of Field. Read more

(Some of) the Red Chairs of Banff National Park

In specially selected spots around several national parks, Parks Canada has installed pairs of red chairs to lure people out into these unique locations. Instantly taken with the concept we planned to scoot round and find as many as we could. Read more

Return to the Rockies

A few days in the Canadian Rockies marked the middle segment of our trip. Being surrounded by mountains in that autumn-almost-winter time of year was something we had looked forward to immensely, planning a packed itinerary which would inevitably see us return to places we visited individually a decade or two ago. Read more

Exploring Bella Coola (2)

Now to the Hagensborg area and west. Read more

Exploring Bella Coola (1)

When we weren’t bear watching we explored Bella Coola and its surrounds. These endeavours were a little weather-impacted (the rainforest habitat shouldn’t make that a complete surprise) though the resulting cloud gave the place additional atmosphere and our trusty Jeep got us everywhere we wanted to go. I’ve divided this into two posts covering roughly west and east of where we stayed. Read more


We weren’t going to leave things entirely to chance. On three of our four days in Bella Coola we booked a half-day river drift bear-watching tour run by a small company based at our lodge. Absolutely the right decision: it enabled us to see grizzlies and black bears fishing and feasting on luckless salmon. Read more

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